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Choose from over 300 jobs
Search knows more than one name for most of these, so type what you call the job. Picking a job adds it as a line item worded exactly as you tapped it. The rate is left blank on purpose — this tool never guesses your prices, though a job you have billed before shows what you charged last time as a hint you can ignore. Anything this list has never heard of, type it and press Add.
What you need before the work begins — a figure or a percent. It prints on the estimate; nothing is owed yet.
Sales tax — is this taxable, and what’s the rate here?
Two questions, in this order: is this job taxable at all, and if it is, at what rate. Both depend on where the work is.
Is it taxable at all?
- Improving real property — a new install, a remodel, an addition — usually makes you the end user of the materials. You already paid sales tax at the supply house, and you don't add tax to your customer's invoice.
- Repairs and maintenance are taxable far more often, and several states treat residential and commercial work differently.
When a customer says they're exempt
Churches, schools, charities and municipal work are often genuinely exempt, and a general contractor buying your work to resell to their client is usually a resale rather than an exemption. In both cases they'll have a certificate, and a copy of it is what protects you — it's the piece of paper that puts the tax on them rather than on you if anyone ever asks. Most customers hand it over without blinking; it's routine paperwork on their end, not a favour you're asking for.
There is no federal sales tax — nothing on this document is federal. Your federal tax is income and self-employment tax, settled with the IRS, not collected from your customer.
State rates as published January 2026; local rates change often. This is general information, not tax advice — your state's revenue department or your bookkeeper has the last word.
Sending opens your phone's share sheet, so you can text or email it from the contact you already have — the amount due, how to pay and your payment link ride along in the message.Sending hands over the finished document — through your browser's share options where it offers them, otherwise saved as a file with an email draft ready for it. Either way the amount due, how to pay and your payment link ride along in the message. Save to Photos hands over the same document as an image — tap “Save Image” in the sheet to keep it.
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See Pro pricingCommon questions
Can I make an invoice on my phone without an account?
No app, and no account for your first two documents — build them, print them, send them, nothing to sign up for. An estimate counts the same as an invoice. Once you've used those two, unlimited documents are $8.99/month and that's when you'd create an account. Without an account, nothing you type into a document is sent to us.
How do I send the invoice to my customer?
Tap “Send as PDF” and your phone's own share sheet opens with the finished invoice attached — pick Messages, Mail, WhatsApp, whatever you use, and the customer is already in your contacts, so there's nothing to type. “Send via SMS” sends it as a picture instead, which previews right inside the message thread. Either way the amount due, your payment instructions and your payment link travel in the message, and the file is built on your phone — it never passes through us.
How do my customers pay me?
Put your payment link or handle in “Get paid online” and every invoice gets a scan-to-pay code: your customer points their phone camera at it and their payment app opens, already pointed at you. Three ways in, because customers read invoices in different places — scan the code off a printed copy, tap the code itself in the PDF (a phone can't photograph its own screen, so on a phone the tap is the one that works), or tap the link in the message you sent. The money moves directly between your customer and your own payment account — we are not a payment processor, we never touch it, and we never see whether you were paid.
What do I put on an HVAC invoice?
Your company name and license number, the customer's name and service address, itemized work (for example: Condenser fan motor — parts & labor), tax if it applies, any deposit already received, and your warranty terms. Beyond that, HVAC invoices carry a few things the generic list misses: the equipment make, model and serial number, the refrigerant type and how many pounds you added, and the manufacturer's parts warranty stated separately from your own labor warranty — those are the three things a homeowner comes back asking for a year later. The readings are worth their own line too: superheat and subcooling on a cooling call, static pressure and temperature rise on a furnace. Nobody can take those numbers again once you have packed the truck, and they are the first thing a manufacturer, the next tech, or the customer's home inspector will ask for.
What causes callbacks on HVAC jobs, and how do I head one off?
The recharge is the one that comes back. You weigh refrigerant into a system that is already losing it, the house cools for six weeks, and the customer calls saying they paid for this once. What settles that argument is in the line description: refrigerant type, pounds added, the pressures and superheat you found before you touched anything, and one plain sentence saying the leak was not located or repaired on this visit. If a leak search was offered and turned down, write that it was offered and turned down.
Do the same after a part swap. A capacitor and a contactor bring a dead condenser back to life, and if the compressor quits a month later the visit gets remembered as the repair that did not hold. Note the compressor amp draw you measured that day and the condition you left the equipment in, so the next tech is comparing numbers instead of guessing.
The third one is comfort rather than failure, and it lands hardest after a changeout. The new system runs, and the customer calls because the back bedroom is still warm. That is almost always duct, and the duct is the part you did not sell them. Write down that the existing duct system was not modified, the static pressure you measured across it, and any return or register problem you pointed out at the time. Written on the day, that is a condition you inherited. Remembered a month later, it is an excuse.
What HVAC work gets done and never gets billed?
Warranty work is the biggest hole. The compressor comes free from the manufacturer, so the whole job gets written up as free, when the labor, the recovery, the nitrogen, the liquid line drier, the fresh charge and the hour spent filing the claim are all yours. Give each of those its own line even when the part itself reads zero. Then the second trip. A control board or an ECM module that was not on the truck turns one job into a diagnostic visit and an install visit, and the second one is the one that disappears.
Equipment removal is a line as well: pumping the charge into a recovery cylinder, wrestling a furnace out of a walk-up attic, and paying somewhere to take the metal. So is pulling the permit and the morning spent waiting on the inspector, plus the pad, the whip, the float switch and the line set cover the job needed.
The small ones add up faster than any of that. Sitting on hold with a manufacturer's tech line while the customer watches you. Clearing a condensate drain and flushing the trap because you were already at the air handler. Setting up a communicating or wifi thermostat, pairing it to their network and their phone, and showing somebody how the schedule works. Filters you carried in. Twenty minutes each, several a week, and none of them on paper.
What should I record on an HVAC job?
Photograph the data plate on the outdoor unit and on the indoor coil or furnace, not just one of them, because a warranty claim is settled on the matched pair and the indoor serial is the one nobody writes down. Red tags need pictures. If you scope a cracked heat exchanger and shut the gas off, the camera image and the CO reading in ppm with the time you took it are the difference between a documented condemnation and an accusation that you shut off somebody's heat to sell a furnace.
On an install, keep the startup numbers: charge weighed in, superheat and subcooling, static pressure, temperature rise, manifold pressure. A manufacturer asking about a failed compressor a year on wants exactly those. Photograph the electrical too — the breaker size and the disconnect feeding the old unit — because a condenser that trips a breaker next summer turns into an argument about what you connected it to.
Keep your own refrigerant record: what came out into recovery, what went back in, and off which cylinder. That is the habit the federal rules on sealed systems are built around, and it is also the only way to answer a leak-rate question a year later. After a storm, an adjuster wants model, serial, age and a photo of flattened condenser fins before you comb them.
What tax rate should I charge on an HVAC invoice?
Start with a different question: is the job taxable at all? In most states, work that improves real property — a new install, a remodel, an addition — makes you the end user of the materials. You paid sales tax at the supply house and you don't add tax to the customer's invoice. Repairs and maintenance are taxable far more often, and some states treat residential and commercial work differently. If tax does apply, the rate is the one at the job's service address: only a handful of states are a single statewide rate, and everywhere else counties and cities add on top of the state share. Tap “Sales tax — is this taxable, and what’s the rate here?” under the tax field, pick your state, and we'll show you the state rate and link you straight to your revenue department's own guidance. And there's no federal sales tax — your federal tax is income and self-employment tax, which you settle with the IRS, not something you collect from a customer. When no tax applies, leave the rate at 0.