Free Plumbing Invoice Generator

No app, and no account for your first two documents — build them, print them, send them, nothing to sign up for. An estimate counts the same as an invoice. Once you've used those two, unlimited documents are $8.99/month and that's when you'd create an account. Without an account, nothing you type into a document is sent to us.

Tap “Send as PDF” and your phone's own share sheet opens with the finished invoice attached — pick Messages, Mail, WhatsApp, whatever you use, and the customer is already in your contacts, so there's nothing to type. “Send via SMS” sends it as a picture instead, which previews right inside the message thread. Either way the amount due, your payment instructions and your payment link travel in the message, and the file is built on your phone — it never passes through us.

Put your payment link or handle in “Get paid online” and every invoice gets a scan-to-pay code: your customer points their phone camera at it and their payment app opens, already pointed at you. Three ways in, because customers read invoices in different places — scan the code off a printed copy, tap the code itself in the PDF (a phone can't photograph its own screen, so on a phone the tap is the one that works), or tap the link in the message you sent. The money moves directly between your customer and your own payment account — we are not a payment processor, we never touch it, and we never see whether you were paid.

Your company name and license number, the customer's name and service address, itemized work (for example: Water heater install — 50 gal, parts & labor), tax if it applies, any deposit already received, and your warranty terms. Beyond that, plumbing invoices carry a few things the generic list misses: the fixture or appliance make and model, the permit number if the job pulled one (water heaters and repipes usually do), and any code-required extra you installed — an expansion tank, a drain pan, a new shutoff — because that is the line a customer questions when they compare your bid to a cheaper one. Write the static pressure you read and whether the house has a pressure reducing valve, and say plainly who supplied the fixture. Those two lines decide who owns the next failure.

You clear a main line, it runs clean, and six weeks later it backs up again and the customer says you never fixed it. Clearing is not repair, and the invoice is the only place that distinction survives the argument. Write what the cable or the camera actually found and how far out it sat: roots at a joint, a belly holding water, grease at the kitchen tie-in, sixty-two feet from the cleanout. Write that flow was restored and tested, and that the defect in the pipe is still there.

The other one is the fixture the customer bought themselves. When you hang somebody's own faucet or toilet, that line has to say labor only, part supplied by the customer, or the cartridge that fails in four months comes back to you as warranty work.

Then there is the leak that appears near your work but is not your work. You replace a kitchen faucet and a month later the ceiling below stains, from a shower pan or a drain arm nobody touched. Note the static pressure you read while you were there, note anything already wet, corroded or dripping when you arrived, and note the fixtures you did not open. A house full of forty-year-old galvanized will keep failing on its own schedule, and the only thing that separates that from your workmanship is what you wrote down on the day.

The parts run. Nothing odd is ever on the truck, not the discontinued cartridge, not the deep closet flange repair ring, not the right dielectric union, so you leave the house, drive to the supply house and come back, and the invoice goes out looking like one visit.

Disposal is the next one. The old fifty-gallon tank, the cast iron tub, the toilet: they all ride away in your truck, and in many places the scrap yard or the transfer station takes a tank only on their own hours and terms. Then permits and inspections on water heaters, repipes and gas work, which is not only the fee but the morning you hold open waiting for an inspector.

Then access, which is most of the hidden labor in this trade. Cutting a wall to reach a concealed shower valve, pulling a toilet to snake through the flange, clearing a homeowner's storage out of the crawl before you can reach the pipe. Add the water shut off at the meter because no stop in the house will hold, the time spent bleeding air out of a system afterward, and the drying and cleanup after a line you opened dumped what was left in it onto somebody's floor.

Photograph the data plate before the unit goes in. Model and serial are what a warranty claim needs a year later, and nobody can read that label once the heater is strapped into a hall closet. Put a gauge on a hose bib and shoot the static pressure before and after any pressure work, because when a supply line lets go next spring, that reading is what separates a failed part from your workmanship.

On a leak the customer intends to claim, bag the failed piece and label it with the address. The burst flex, the split cartridge, the corroded nipple: an adjuster asks for the component itself, not a picture of it. Photograph every joint and fitting while the wall or ceiling is still open, with a tape or a stud in frame so the location reads later.

Save the camera run with the footage counter visible, and note where the cleanout is and how far your cable actually reached — a drain argument is always about distance. On gas work, record the test pressure and how long the line held it. On a water heater, photograph the relief valve discharge, the expansion tank and the venting as you left them, because those three are what a home inspector writes up when the house sells.

Start with a different question: is the job taxable at all? In most states, work that improves real property — a new install, a remodel, an addition — makes you the end user of the materials. You paid sales tax at the supply house and you don't add tax to the customer's invoice. Repairs and maintenance are taxable far more often, and some states treat residential and commercial work differently. If tax does apply, the rate is the one at the job's service address: only a handful of states are a single statewide rate, and everywhere else counties and cities add on top of the state share. Tap “Sales tax — is this taxable, and what’s the rate here?” under the tax field, pick your state, and we'll show you the state rate and link you straight to your revenue department's own guidance. And there's no federal sales tax — your federal tax is income and self-employment tax, which you settle with the IRS, not something you collect from a customer. When no tax applies, leave the rate at 0.