Free Mobile Mechanic Invoice Generator

No app, and no account for your first two documents — build them, print them, send them, nothing to sign up for. An estimate counts the same as an invoice. Once you've used those two, unlimited documents are $8.99/month and that's when you'd create an account. Your invoice contents never leave your device either way.

Tap “Send as PDF” and your phone's own share sheet opens with the finished invoice attached — pick Messages, Mail, WhatsApp, whatever you use, and the customer is already in your contacts, so there's nothing to type. “Send via SMS” sends it as a picture instead, which previews right inside the message thread. Either way the amount due, your payment instructions and your payment link travel in the message, and the file is built on your phone — it never passes through us.

Put your payment link or handle in “Get paid online” and every invoice gets a scan-to-pay code: your customer points their phone camera at it and their payment app opens, already pointed at you. Three ways in, because customers read invoices in different places — scan the code off a printed copy, tap the code itself in the PDF (a phone can't photograph its own screen, so on a phone the tap is the one that works), or tap the link in the message you sent. The money moves directly between your customer and your own payment account — we are not a payment processor, we never touch it, and we never see whether you were paid.

Your company name and license number, the customer's name and service address, itemized work (for example: Diagnostic — at your location), tax if it applies, any deposit already received, and your warranty terms. Beyond that, mobile mechanic invoices carry a few things the generic list misses: the vehicle's year, make, model, VIN and mileage at service, the part numbers you fitted, and the warranty term in miles as well as months — a repair invoice without the mileage cannot support a warranty claim later. Record the codes present when you arrived and the ones you cleared, name any work you recommended and the customer declined, and say who supplied the part.

The comeback that hurts is the light coming back on. You pull a misfire code on one cylinder, swap the coil and the plug on the road test, clear it, and the car drives clean out of the driveway. Two weeks later the same light, and as far as the customer is concerned you replaced the wrong part and took their money.

So write what the code actually was when you arrived, the freeze frame conditions, and the test that pointed at that cylinder, including the coil you moved to another hole and the misfire that followed it. Write the codes you cleared and the mileage you cleared them at. Then write what you told them comes next if it returns.

If you saw oil in the plug wells or a split intake boot and they said not today, that line belongs on the paperwork you hand over at the curb, not in your head. The other comeback is the noise that changes rather than stops — you replace worn front pads and the customer now hears the rear, or a new mount makes an old exhaust rattle audible. Note what else you found worn and what you did not touch, in the same visit, in writing.

The hour that never gets written down is the parts run. You are on your knees in a driveway, the counter handed you the wrong rotor, and forty minutes goes to driving back for it, on top of the time you spent reading a VIN down the phone to get the right one in the first place. The second trip goes the same way: diagnose Tuesday, fit Thursday, one line on the paperwork.

Then disposal. The used oil, the old coolant, the brake fluid and the dead battery all leave in your van and become your problem. A core return is another drive.

Bill the relearns the job genuinely needs, the battery registration on a start-stop car, a TPMS relearn, a throttle relearn, because each one is scan tool time — and the subscription behind that scan tool is a real annual cost carried by every job. Bill the seized exhaust bolt you had to extract, and bill the wheel re-torque you promised to come back and do. Bill the diagnostic that ends in bad news, too: finding that a repair is not worth doing is the most valuable hour you sell and the one most often given away.

Photograph the odometer when you arrive and again when you pack up, and photograph the VIN, in the door jamb or through the glass. A remanufactured alternator is warrantied in miles as well as months and the claim dies without a reading.

Photograph the vehicle as you found it before you touch it, including the panel somebody later says you dented and the concrete underneath it, because an oil stain on a driveway turns into your oil stain. Photograph the failed part off the car with its number showing next to the new one. Record pad and rotor thickness in millimetres rather than writing worn.

Keep the scan report: codes stored on arrival, freeze frame, monitors after the repair. On a pre-purchase inspection photograph the tire date codes, the frame rails and the undercarriage, because the buyer comes back a year later asking what you saw and what you missed. Keep the torque figures you set on anything that holds a wheel, a suspension component or a head — that is the number an insurer's engineer will ask for, and the only answer is one written down at the time.

Start with a different question: is the job taxable at all? In most states, work that improves real property — a new install, a remodel, an addition — makes you the end user of the materials. You paid sales tax at the supply house and you don't add tax to the customer's invoice. Repairs and maintenance are taxable far more often, and some states treat residential and commercial work differently. If tax does apply, the rate is the one at the job's service address: only a handful of states are a single statewide rate, and everywhere else counties and cities add on top of the state share. Tap “Sales tax — is this taxable, and what’s the rate here?” under the tax field, pick your state, and we'll show you the state rate and link you straight to your revenue department's own guidance. And there's no federal sales tax — your federal tax is income and self-employment tax, which you settle with the IRS, not something you collect from a customer. When no tax applies, leave the rate at 0.