Free Carpentry Invoice & Estimate Template (Word, Excel, PDF)
A carpentry invoice template is a fill-in form for work measured in openings, rooms and linear feet: the doors hung, the trim run, the framing repaired, the hardware bored and fitted, and the finish state each piece was left in. Put a size on every line that somebody can lay a tape against — this is paper that gets read in the doorway.
Your logo and business details, printed at the top of every one of these.
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Rather fill it in here? Open the Carpentry invoice generator with the Modern design →What belongs on a carpentry invoice?
Carpentry gets checked back at the opening, so the paper has to carry sizes a generic invoice has no field for. A prehung interior door install needs the hand and the swing — left-hand inswing, right-hand inswing — the slab thickness, 1-3/8 in. interior against 1-3/4 in. exterior, and the jamb width you ordered for that wall: 4-9/16 in. behind half-inch drywall on a two-by-four wall, 6-9/16 in. on a two-by-six. If you bored the slab, give the backset and the bore. Trim lines name the profile and the stock rather than the word trim: 2-1/4 in. casing, one-by-six baseboard, 5-1/4 in. crown at a 52/38 spring angle. Deck lines carry joist spacing on center, post size and baluster spacing. Framing lines carry the rough opening you left. Cabinet runs carry the footage of run, plus the filler strip and toe kick that closed it out. And every line ends with the finish state: bare, primed, painted or stained.
How to fill in a carpentry invoice
Work down the invoice the way the job actually ran. The repair assessment or measure visit goes at the top, charged or credited. Then demo, then rough carpentry — framing repair, subfloor repair — then the finish work, then the hardware. The unit changes as you move down that list, and every line has to carry its own. Installs bill flat by the unit: per opening for an interior door install, per room for a baseboard install or crown molding, per foot of run for a kitchen cabinet install, per board for a deck board replacement, per step for a stair tread and riser replacement. Repair bills time and material: a hinge screw repair on a sagging door can be four screws or a rebuilt jamb. A scattered day of small fixes bills as a half-day or full-day labor block. Put a real number in the quantity column — eight openings, three rooms, sixty-two feet — so the total reads as arithmetic.
Common carpentry line items, and what each one runs
Here are 24 of the 340 jobs the online version can fill in for you, with the hours and materials a typical one takes. They are starting points, not prices — what you charge is yours.
| Line item | Typical hours | Materials at cost |
|---|---|---|
| Repair assessment / measure visit | 1 hr | — |
| Interior door install — prehung | 2.5 hrs | $200 |
| Exterior door replacement — prehung | 5 hrs | $550 |
| Door jamb & casing repair | 2 hrs | $50 |
| Pocket door repair | 3 hrs | $45 |
| Deck board replacement — up to 10 boards | 3 hrs | $180 |
| Deck railing repair — one section | 2.5 hrs | $120 |
| Deck build — 12×16 pressure-treated | 24 hrs | $2,900 |
| Stair tread & riser replacement | 3 hrs | $130 |
| Handrail install — straight run | 2 hrs | $95 |
| Baseboard install — per room | 3 hrs | $90 |
| Crown molding — per room | 4 hrs | $150 |
| Window trim & casing — per window | 1.5 hrs | $60 |
| Board-and-batten accent wall | 6 hrs | $200 |
| Custom closet shelving system | 5 hrs | $350 |
| Built-in bookcase — one wall | 20 hrs | $900 |
| Kitchen cabinet install — per 10 ft run | 8 hrs | — |
| Cabinet door & hinge adjustment | 1 hr | $15 |
| Floating shelves — set of 3 | 1.5 hrs | $110 |
| Wood rot repair — sill or trim | 4 hrs | $120 |
| Fascia & soffit repair — one section | 3 hrs | $140 |
| Porch column replacement | 4 hrs | $320 |
| Screen door install | 2 hrs | $180 |
| Barn door install — track & hardware | 3 hrs | $320 |
Three carpentry invoice mistakes that turn into free work
First, delivering trim and never saying who finishes it. Hanging and setting it is one trade; matching a stain to a twenty-year-old floor is another. If the line does not say installed primed, paint by others, the last hour of a good job goes on color. Second, one door price riding across openings that are not alike. A pocket door frame goes in the wall, French doors want the astragal set and both leaves aligned, and a solid core upgrade hangs two or three times the weight on the same hinges. Price them apart or the hard ones go in for nothing. Third, fitting material you did not buy without scoping the warranty. A slab that arrives unbored, a prehung in the wrong hand — each has to be fitted to framing it was never matched to, so the line reads supplied by customer and the warranty reads workmanship on the install only.
Common questions
How do I invoice millwork that was made to fit one opening?
Write it up the way the supplier wrote the order. A slab cut down for an out-of-square opening, a prehung ordered in a width nobody stocks, casing run around an arched opening — none of it goes back on a shelf, so the line carries hand and swing, jamb width, slab thickness, profile and finish rather than the word door. That description is what settles it when the unit that shows up is not the unit that was ordered, and the fastest way to eat the cost of a door is to have written entry door on the only piece of paper anybody kept. If money came up front, show it applied against material ordered rather than against labor, and bill the install on the day the install happens.
Should a multi-day deck or built-in be invoiced once at the end?
No, because a build ties up your days and a load of material before anything looks finished. A pressure-treated deck build is several days of framing and decking, and a built-in bookcase for one wall is a bench day before a single piece goes in the house. What fits most of them is a deposit covering the material, then the balance at completion, each invoice naming what is complete and what is not. Save the mid-job draw for the ones that genuinely run long, and tie it to something the customer can see standing — the frame up, the boxes set and leveled. Keep stairs, railing and skirting on their own lines at every stage: that is the scope most often added mid-job, and the scope customers assume was inside the number.
How do I invoice a punch list from a builder walkthrough or an inspection report?
Name each item the way their list names it, then say what you actually did to it. Carpentry punch items are mostly adjustments rather than replacements: a door that closes but will not catch wants the strike plate and latch aligned, a sagging door wants long screws through the hinge jamb, a bifold that rubs wants its track and pivot reset, a loose newel post wants re-anchoring, and quarter round left off at a corner still gets a line. Mark the items that were never yours — drywall behind a hollow core door hole patch, paint on a wall you did not touch — and the ones the homeowner waved off, because an unmarked line reads as unfinished and holds up the ones beside it. Anything that turned out to be a repair rather than an adjustment gets its own line.
What should a half-day of miscellaneous repairs look like on an invoice?
Like a list, not a block of time. A day of small carpentry is a dozen short adjustments sold as one block. Bill the half day or full day, then write every item underneath it: a sticking door planed and rehung, a bypass closet door track adjusted, weatherstripping and a sweep on two doors, cabinet doors and hinges adjusted, an attic ladder set square. Hours with nothing listed under them is the line a customer reads twice and an office sends back. Then say what the block does not cover, so a second half-day next month is not read as the first one billed again.
The same twenty designs, filled for other trades
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