Free Gutter Invoice Generator

No app, and no account for your first two documents — build them, print them, send them, nothing to sign up for. An estimate counts the same as an invoice. Once you've used those two, unlimited documents are $8.99/month and that's when you'd create an account. Without an account, nothing you type into a document is sent to us.

Tap “Send as PDF” and your phone's own share sheet opens with the finished invoice attached — pick Messages, Mail, WhatsApp, whatever you use, and the customer is already in your contacts, so there's nothing to type. “Send via SMS” sends it as a picture instead, which previews right inside the message thread. Either way the amount due, your payment instructions and your payment link travel in the message, and the file is built on your phone — it never passes through us.

Put your payment link or handle in “Get paid online” and every invoice gets a scan-to-pay code: your customer points their phone camera at it and their payment app opens, already pointed at you. Three ways in, because customers read invoices in different places — scan the code off a printed copy, tap the code itself in the PDF (a phone can't photograph its own screen, so on a phone the tap is the one that works), or tap the link in the message you sent. The money moves directly between your customer and your own payment account — we are not a payment processor, we never touch it, and we never see whether you were paid.

Your company name and license number, the customer's name and service address, itemized work (for example: Seamless 5-inch K-style gutter — 120 linear ft, installed), tax if it applies, any deposit already received, and your warranty terms. Beyond that, gutter invoices carry a few things the generic list misses: linear feet, the profile and metal gauge — 5-inch versus 6-inch K-style, .027 versus .032 aluminum — downspout count, guards, and any fascia repair you did along the way. The gauge is the difference between two quotes nobody explains. Note the hanger type and spacing, where each downspout discharges, and the condition of the fascia you hung on.

The call comes after the first hard rain: you cleaned it, and it still overflows. Usually nothing you did is wrong. Water is running behind the gutter because there is no apron or drip edge, the buried line is blocked below grade, or a valley dumps more into one run than a 5-inch gutter will carry. None of that shows on a gutter that looks clean from the ground.

So write down what you cleared and what you tested: downspouts flushed and running out at the daylight end, hose run at the high end, water leaving every outlet. Then write what you found and did not touch. No gutter apron on the north side. Soft fascia at the third hanger. Underground line backing up at the elbow.

A cleaning that names the condition you left behind turns that phone call from a complaint into the next job. On new gutter the same principle covers ice: a gutter does not cause an ice dam and cannot prevent one, and a customer who was told that in writing before the winter is not the customer who calls you in February.

Guards are the big one. Pulling micromesh or a reverse-curve helmet off, cleaning under it and screwing it back down is most of the labor on that house, and it still gets booked as a cleaning. Same with the detached garage, the shed and the carport nobody mentioned on the phone.

Count the debris too, because bagging it and hauling it off your customer's property is different work from shaking it into the beds, and a fall clean on a maple lot fills a truck. Then the ladder. A walkout side, landscaping you cannot set feet in, a low-slope edge you have to go up on, a standoff over a sunroom. Every one of those is another set-up, and set-ups are the day.

Add the downspout you snaked, the end cap you resealed while you were up there, the hornet nest, the splash blocks you reset, and the drive out on a rural route. Add the roof report nobody asked for and everybody wants — you are the only trade up there twice a year, and the five minutes you spend photographing a lifted shingle is worth billing as an inspection rather than giving away.

Photograph the inside of the trough before you touch it, then again empty, from the same place on the ladder, and keep the date on the file. Shoot every downspout with water running at the outlet end, and the debris on the tarp before it goes in the truck.

Before you hang anything, photograph the fascia: soft board, old spike holes, prior repairs, the paint. That is the picture that settles who caused the rot. Shoot the roof edge too, the drip edge or the lack of one, since that detail decides whether a new gutter can ever work properly.

On storm work shoot the whole elevation first, wide enough to take in the roof edge and the ground, because an adjuster a year later wants to know what was already bent. Write down the profile and gauge you hung, the hanger type and spacing, and the guard manufacturer and product name. A guard warranty claim in year six needs the model, and nobody keeps the box.

Start with a different question: is the job taxable at all? In most states, work that improves real property — a new install, a remodel, an addition — makes you the end user of the materials. You paid sales tax at the supply house and you don't add tax to the customer's invoice. Repairs and maintenance are taxable far more often, and some states treat residential and commercial work differently. If tax does apply, the rate is the one at the job's service address: only a handful of states are a single statewide rate, and everywhere else counties and cities add on top of the state share. Tap “Sales tax — is this taxable, and what’s the rate here?” under the tax field, pick your state, and we'll show you the state rate and link you straight to your revenue department's own guidance. And there's no federal sales tax — your federal tax is income and self-employment tax, which you settle with the IRS, not something you collect from a customer. When no tax applies, leave the rate at 0.