Free Plumbing Invoice Template

A plumbing invoice template is a fill-in form that turns a service call into a billable record: your license number, the fixture or line you worked on, labor hours or flat-rate tasks, parts, disposal, and any work the customer declined. Fill it in the browser, download the PDF, and hand it over before you leave the driveway.

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Downloads are blank and unbranded — no email, no account, nothing to unsubscribe from. The browser version does the arithmetic and prints to PDF.

What belongs on a plumbing invoice?

Plumbing invoices live or die on sizes and locations. Name the pipe by diameter and material — 3/4 in. PEX, 1/2 in. type L copper, 2 in. ABS — and name the fixture by where it sits in the house, not just 'bathroom faucet.' Drain and sewer work needs footage: main line cabled to 68 ft from the cleanout, root mass at 42 ft. Water heater lines carry gallons, fuel, and vent type; a tankless carries BTU input and the gas line size you ran to it. A pressure-reducing valve gets the PSI it was set to. Water softeners get grain capacity, and the invoice should say whether the house is on a well or on municipal supply, because that changes what a pressure or hardness complaint means. Backflow assemblies get size and serial number. Gas work gets the test pressure you held and how long it held.

How to fill in the plumbing invoice template

Start with the service call line even when you waive it — 'diagnostic, credited to repair' reads better than a charge that quietly disappears. Plumbers price two ways and the invoice should say which: flat-rate per task, where one line covers the whole toilet rebuild, or time and material, where hours are man-hours and a two-tech cast-iron pull bills as two. Water line repair goes per linear foot. A repipe goes per fixture, so count the fixtures on the paper. Put after-hours on its own line. Itemize the fixture, the rough-in parts, and the haul-away of the old unit separately, since a homeowner who supplied their own faucet still owes you the trip and the labor. Roll solder, flux, wax rings, PEX clamps, and thread sealant into one shop-materials line rather than listing every fitting.

Common plumbing line items, and what each one runs

These are the 318 jobs the online version can fill in for you, with the hours and materials a typical one takes. They are starting points, not prices — what you charge is yours.

Line itemTypical hoursMaterials at cost
Service call / diagnostic1 hr
Water heater install — 50 gal3 hrs$950
Drain clearing — main line2 hrs$35
Faucet replacement — parts & labor1.5 hrs$180
Toilet rebuild or replacement2 hrs$320
Water heater install — tankless6 hrs$1,750
Garbage disposal replacement1.5 hrs$190
Sump pump replacement2.5 hrs$350
Sewer camera inspection1.5 hrs
Hydro-jetting — main line3 hrs$60
Shower valve replacement3.5 hrs$240
Tub / shower faucet rebuild2 hrs$95
Water line repair (per linear ft)3 hrs$140
Repipe — per fixture4 hrs$260
Pressure-reducing valve replacement2 hrs$180
Water softener install3.5 hrs$900
Hose bib / outdoor spigot replacement1.5 hrs$45
Gas line install or repair4 hrs$220
Leak detection2 hrs
Toilet flange repair2.5 hrs$60
Sink install — undermount3 hrs$280
Emergency / after-hours call2 hrs
Sewer line spot repair6 hrs$700
Water heater flush & anode rod1.5 hrs$60

Three invoicing mistakes that cost plumbers money

Three come back to bite. First, billing a cleared drain as a fixed drain. Cabling a main open is not repairing the break that keeps filling it, and if the invoice does not separate 'cleared today' from 'cause found at 42 ft, repair recommended,' the next backup is a free trip. Put the camera finding and its footage on the same paper. Second, leaving declined work off the invoice — the corroded angle stop the homeowner told you to skip, the flange you flagged. Unwritten, it becomes your leak. Third, giving the whole job one warranty term when the tank carries a manufacturer's warranty and your labor carries yours. Name the two separately — what the manufacturer covers on the unit, what you cover on the install. One blanket term either hands you a claim on a part the factory would have replaced, or buries a six-year tank behind a one-year labor line.

Common questions

How do I bill a job where I had to cut open a wall to reach the pipe?

Bill the access separately from the repair. Write the opening's size and location — 18 by 24 in. opened in the hall ceiling below the upstairs bath — then the repair line, then a plain sentence saying whether patch, texture, and paint are included or excluded. Most plumbers exclude them, and that sentence is what stops a homeowner from expecting a finished ceiling back. If you had to cut tile, plaster, or slab, get it acknowledged before the saw comes out and note the acknowledgement on the invoice, because those surfaces rarely close up invisibly.

Should an after-hours plumbing call be a separate line or just a higher rate?

A separate line, applied to labor only. The premium is on your time, not on the sump pump you carried in, so any template that multiplies the whole total will mark up parts too and hand the customer a fair argument. Show base labor, show the after-hours line beside it, and name the window it covers — nights, weekends, holidays. Add the time you were dispatched and the time you cleared the property. Response-time complaints die quickly when the clock is already written on the paper.

What goes on the invoice for a backflow preventer test?

List the assembly, not just the test. The report is a regulated document that in most areas goes to the water purveyor, so the invoice should carry the assembly make, size, and serial number, its location on the property, the pass or fail result, the identification of the gauge you tested with, and where the report was filed. If it failed and you rebuilt it, that is a second line naming the repair kit. Write the next test date on the invoice so the customer's reminder comes from you rather than from a shutoff notice.

What should a plumbing invoice say about a sewer or water line dig?

It should carry the 811 ticket number. Calling before you dig applies everywhere in the US, and that ticket is the cheapest proof you did it when a marked utility gets nicked. Then give the run: linear feet, depth, pipe material and size installed, the fittings and transitions, and whether the trench was backfilled and compacted or left open for inspection. Restoration gets its own line or its own exclusion, because sod, gravel, driveway, and concrete do not come back for free. If a cleanout or tracer wire went in, name it.

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